Saturday, April 23, 2005

Conquering Poseidon

Me, Angela and Kane stayed in tonight, ate takeout and watched Riding Giants on my projector.

I think I must've said, "That's crazy" about 20 times.

waimea bay by David M. French, Jr.

The film is a documentary chronicling surfers in the 20th century and their quest to ride the biggest wave yet.

Its truly incredible though. Can you imagine a 100 foot wave? Given that the height of my ceilings are 12 feet -- and I can't even fathom falling from that height, what must it be like to soar at death-defying speeds on a water demon?

The film was highly entertaining... all the surfers seemed pretty humble, considering their achievements.

One thing that struck me was that the surfers get depressed if they don't see good waves. Its as if they go into wave withdrawal or something.

It makes me think, they are always after the next bigger and better wave. Its this never-ending quest for more, more, more. Maybe I am being too jaded here, but why can't they be satisfied with what they have?

I suppose it does get boring. Why surf Waimea Bay when you could surf Peahi?

And, I think something about surfing seems very pure. When you're out there, maybe its when you really realize your insignificance.

Why do people climb Mount Everest? (Have you read this devastating account of a Mt. Everest expedition - Into Thin Air?)

Why does Bethany Hamilton continue to surf and compete, even after losing her arm to a shark while surfing? (Any relation to Laird?)

I don't know... but Riding Giants was definitely riveting.

Oh and for a less intense surfing movie, check out Blue Crush.